There are two kinds of fobs. They both look the same. You may hear them called "grey" versus "black". This is misleading and confusing and should be ignored. For example, I hold in my hand a black fob that is really of the "grey" type. So this is nonsense. But figuring out which you need is important because they are not interchangeable.
If you have a working fob, you should look closely at the back and find the FCC ID. On mine this is BAB237131-022. As near as I can tell this is a "grey" type, although the plastic if black. The other type is marked (so I am told) BAB237131-056. So only the last two digits matter. Lets call they type 22 and type 56.
What I am learning is that the type "56" fobs work with the security system that was installed at the factory. The type "22" fobs work with the security system that was installed by the dealer. I see both called the RS3000 security system, so just knowing that does not sort out the issue.
I purchased a cheap ($25) new aftermarked fob on Ebay that they say is "22" compatible. Used original fobs are available, but cost from $55 and up. I often regret it when I buy aftermarket parts, but we shall see. A locksmith charges about $200, but deals with programming it.
Once you have the correct one you need to "program it". I have lost count of all the different methods that are described online. Some are called "rain dance" or "chicken dance" methods. See below for various instructions of this sort that never did work.
The listings I see for genuine "22" type fobs say to do this:
I removed the left kick panel and it was not behind it. I peeked in through the fuse access hole and there it was! The harness going to it is labeled "ES3000".
There is no way to reach the "programming switch" through this hole, so I had to remove the lower part of the dash (below the steering wheel). This is fairly easy. It is held by several (4?) 10mm bolts and a screw. Once it is removed, you can pull the "ECU box" out of the hole they crammed it into and indeed there is a tiny green button on the side.
I had an old fob from my 1999 Camry that worked just fine with the Camry. I wanted to use it with my 2000 Tacoma and hoped it would just be a matter of programming it. I tried the following, with no luck.
By far the hardest thing is finding the "ECU programming receiver." This may be in various places under the drivers side dash as it was often installed by the dealer. I removed the left kick panel and it was not behind it (but it might be on your vehicle). I peeked in through fuse access hole and there it was! The harness going to it is labeled "ES3000".
There is no way to reach the "programming switch" through this hole, so I had to remove the lower part of the dash (below the steering wheel). This is fairly easy. It is held by several (4?) 10mm bolts and a screw. Once it is removed, you can pull the "ECU box" out of the hole they crammed it into and indeed there is a tiny green button on the side.
I pushed and held it for 3 seconds, but nothing happened. I saw no activity on the alarm system LED on the dash, though in bright sun it is hard to tell. Pressing buttons on my remote accomplished nothing after holding the button for 3 seconds.
Why did it not work? Who knows. Maybe I have an incompatible "grey" fob that is masquerading as a black fob.
I put it all back together and gave up.
You may have better luck, so here is the process:
Tom's Tacoma pages / tom@mmto.org