June 9, 2025
Here are some comments on forums about the PX10, comparing it to a bike I don't know anything about, namely the PA10. My bike indeed has the Reynolds 531 double butted tubing, which was a thing they bragged about. Mine also has both chromed fork and rear stays.
The PA10 and PX10 used the same basic geometry, but used different materials and finish. The PA10 used the standard Peugeot, hi-tensile steel tubing while the PX10 used top grade Reynolds 531 butted tubing. The PX10 will have chrome rear stays, while a PA10 will not. A PA10 will build up into about a 25 lb bicycle with correct, period components, while a PX10 will weigh in around 21 lb.About 1/2 the weight difference will be in the frame. The butted frame will provide a much livelier and resilient feeling. The other big difference between the two is the crankset. The PA10 is usually seen with a heavy, steel, cottered, Stronglight crankset, while the PX10 is usually seen with the much lighter, aluminum, cotterless, Stronglight 93.
About the only other component on the PX10 that is substantially better than the PA10 counterpart is the front derailleur. The parallelogram Super Competition is far superior to the push rod Prestige. As for the other compoents, they are the same, or only slightly better on the PX10.
In the end, the PA10 is basically the equivalent of an entry level UO8, but with racing geometry and tubular wheelset. It is essentially a budget/entry level racing bicycle. The PX10 on the other hand is a high end racing frame equipped with mid range components.
In the early to mid '70s, a PX10 cost about twice the price of a PA10. I haven't been tracking current prices, but I suspect a PX10 now is worth at least four times the price of a PA10? The PA10 should be the better bargain, by far. However, in the end, the PX10 is the better investment. It will provide a much better ride and, in the long run, will give a better return on the investment, should you decide to sell it.
Tom's bike pages / tom@mmto.org